homestyle: the sweetness

our christmas in connecticut, hosted by the palacio/reyes families…
here’s the mostly homemade sweetness:

tita celia’s cookie tray (plenty more where these came from)

mom’s peerless leche flan

jenny’s nutella cups with white chocolate mousse

tiramisu 

homebaked red velvet cupcakes

tita celia’s carrot cake

tita celia’s coconut cream pie (i.e. the stuff of my dreams)

behold, the duffin

i had heard about the duffin about a year ago. my brother clued me in that a little bake shop, brownie points, existed near his work that made an impeccable duffin. i had never had a duffin before, but as a lover of both donuts and muffins, i was in from the start. my sister-in-law and i took a trip to there, and it is a memory i will never forget. i have been craving them since my voyage last week. my sister-in-law has, in fact, tried to recreate the duffin in her baking adventures, and said she has never been able to. the only thing i can do for now is go back (hopefully sooner rather than later) to brownie points.

the exterior of this magical treat was crispy and crunchy with a thin, sugary layer from top to bottom, which leads me to believe it was momentarily fried. the inside was doughy, moist and had the texture of a fresh baked muffin with the flavor of an old-fashioned donut. any tips on how to recreate this masterpiece?

brownie points bakery: 3 Beechwood Road, Summit, NJ 07901-2528

phone: (908) 464-2253

homestyle: happy housewarming

cheers and thank you to cousin matias and hitomi for hosting a wonderful evening…

i adore this simplicity and delicacy…it exemplifies the evening

a very well-balanced cheese plate

clearly, the coolest beer in the world.

our hosts

persimmons, suggesting transformation and good luck…

hello homemade dumplings!

more homemade goodness: meatballs, red cabbage, sushi

pretty polvoron – filipino candy made from powdered milk, butter and sugar

dbgb kitchen bar: shanghai surprise

imagine a friday night in late fall.
it’s about 7:30. you swoop in through the etched glass doors at 299 bowery, happy and hopeful, even though you’ve not been able to make a reservation for 4.
you take a gander around the anteroom: it’s full, but no one’s waiting for a table. you’re starting to feel lucky.

there are two people behind the dais, dressed in grey or something muted and monochromatic and modern, and they smile calmly as you discuss the no-reservation situation. and, gesturing toward the anteroom, they say, that’s absolutely no problem, it’ll probably be about thirty to forty minutes, whenever a table is free you can just take it.

and you’re relieved, so relieved, because 30-40 minutes is nothing really– a drink and a half at the fancy bar? you remember previous visits: when the place was newly opened, with hotshot you were dating then. how positively adorable it was to share those leather bar stools-for-two, and burgers and wine and ice cream sundaes. you smile and turn to your sister and your cousins, with your mind mostly on the one visiting from out of town, and as you lead them toward the bar, you regurgitate the news:  great, it will be about 30-40 minutes…

and then you start really hearing the rest of what was said…you can just take it.

you’re only half-smiling now and your temples are beginning to throb as you process those words. but you kind of don’t believe they expect you to snag the table yourself.

by the time you’re at the bar-where there is only room for 2 to sit– you’re so flummoxed you can’t focus on the cocktail menu. you’re assessing the situation:  half the diners are mid-meal, the rest have clean, white plates and menus still in hand.

it hits you. damn. this is going to suck.

but you’ve got to make this work.

you’re paying attention to everything and everyone now, except the folks you’re with. you notice the bartender is surly and slow. the surly part is contagious. you’re observing a party of  two families with two strollers–only on their first course and one of the kids is climbing amok. (is that right to say? anyway…) no chance they’re out before the hour.

you kick yourself because realize that right in front of you was a circular table for 6 which had, up to that moment, 4 seats available. (you think: did you really want to sit and share that table anyway? the answer is no, but …what if that was the best chance to eat before 9? ) your head is in full turmoil.

thankfully your family has not wasted any time–they’ve made surly bartender take a food order. tuna crudo, with a harissa-sesame sauce, gets solid nods from the four of us. they’ve ordered something else, also good (rillette provencal, maybe? you don’t give it much thought–your attention is focused on not just the tables, but the couples and groups that are squeezing up to the bar. the competition. )

finally, close to an hour later, you spy an opportunity. spy being the operative word. you sidle up to a table for 4 occupied by a couple who looked on their way out–and possibly on the outs? you don’t listen and you try not to look–you feel  bad for hovering over their ennui. this is when you really start to resent the seating policy. you catch the eye of a handsome, neatly dressed young fellow. he’s looking to snag the same table for himself and his lady friend. you share an empathetic smile and exchange a few words. he kindly defers, allows you to take the table.  you’re overly apologetic for an inconvenience that’s a function of the cockamamie, lazy set-up. you offer to buy him a drink, because it all feels wrong somehow. but he knows you’re not at fault. he seems to appreciate the gesture.

you signal strenuously and  impatiently for your 3 dining partners to join you (quickly!)  to save you from having to stake any more awkward claims to the table.

the service gets better–once you finally sit (yourself) down, they start acting like they want you to stay. every bite is as good as you remember. it’s almost redemptive. the four of you manage to rave about the crisp, salty fries and the clever little burgers and go hog-wild for the desserts.

but as you walk out of the place, and notice now three people behind the dais to wave you on your way out. you wonder what exactly is the point of three being there, if not one will help seat the people without the reservations? the reservations room isn’t big at all. and  it all comes back to you, the tension and discomfort, and you think to yourself, never again dbgb kitchen bar.

at least not without a reservation.

***

toscane: pan roasted italian sausage, slow cooked fennel & tomato, chili and garlic

and, bringing up the rear, polonaise: smoked pork & veal kielbasa, cabbage, beets & apple

handcut steak tartare: ok, YUM. (with quail egg, grilled ciabatta, cornichons, pickled ramp)

the piggie: beef patty topped with daisy mays bbq pulled pork, jalapeno mayonnaise, on a cheddar bun with mustard-vinegar slaw, and fries.

you can see the pulled pork here. the beef is so fresh, it’s sweet.

the caramel pear napoleon– this one fades quickly from the memory. the hazelnut biscuit is crunchy, but unremarkable, and the caramel doesn’t have the strength to stand out. but if you’re in the mood to finish your meal with poached pear and  lots of whipped cream, you’ll probably enjoy it.

profiteroles were impressive. often the pastry can be chewy but this was deftly prepared….

with the chocolate cream, coffee ice cream and warm mocha sauce…it’s a real showpiece

formerly:  the profiteroles, the napoleon, a green apple and honey sundae and (my favorite) the chocolate-peanut sundae. rice krispies, chocolate brownies, caramelized peanuts, chocolate fudge & whipped cream…

***

dbgb kitchen bar is at 299 bowery
new york, ny 10003
(212) 933-5300

if you go without a reservation, you’ve been warned…

ippudo

it’s taken me over a year to visit ippudo, because every single time i try to go, the wait is over two hours long! finally, one of my friends (thank you, sami) decided to run in, put our names in, and head next door for a drink while we waited the standard two hours. under most circumstances, i would be so annoyed about the long wait that i wouldn’t even be able to enjoy the food, but when it came to ippudo, i will say….it was worth it.

our hungry selves practically ran to our table in the back of the larger than expected, jam packed, minimally decorated restaurant.  we started with three appetizers: the shishito (deep-fried japanese peppers with yuzu salt), yamitsuki goma kyuri (cucumber mixed with sesame oil dressing) and one of the nightly appetizer specials, pork and mushrooms with lime jelly. all were delicious, but the cucumber and sesame oil dressing was, by far, my favorite. it was so clean and refreshing, and the toasted sesame topping and the dipping sauce that accompanied the dish were both packed with so much flavor and texture. i also must note how absolutely amazing the mushrooms in the pork dish were – they were some of the best, most memorablel mushrooms i’ve tasted.

our entrees: the ramen noodles. they.were.the.best.i’ve.ever.had.

i ordered the miso ramen, which was soy bean paste flavored ramen noodles in tonkotsu soup with pork belly chashu, cabbage, spinach, manma, ginger & scallions. not spicy at all, and a slightly sweet, perfect, delicate broth.

the karaka miso ramen, which was quite spicier than the rest, but not at all overpowering.

and finally, the shoyu ramen, which is soy flavored ramen noodle soup in a chicken and tonkotsu soup with pork loin chashu, menma, spinach, narto, nori & scallions.  the broth was so rich and full, yet the soup did not seem at all greasy or heavy.

ippudo is located at 65 4th ave, between 9th and 10th st.

phone: (212) 388-0088 (totally worth calling before you go. they’ll tell you the wait time.)

pancakes

mark bittman was right. the person who invented pancake mix was a genius. it occurred to me recently, that other than on a few special occasions, i never really make pancakes from scratch. the good ole’ aunt jemima mix occupies a valued piece of real estate in my cabinet, and i realized after this recent pancake adventure, it doesn’t have to.

there are really only a couple of dry ingredients (simple pantry staples, i might add) in pancake mix anyway, and the process itself is so easy, there is no reason to ever use the mix again! this is a basic pancake recipe from mark bittman’s how to cook everything, but i added the cinnamon and nutmeg for some wintry/fall flavor.

the batter was a little thick, so i added that extra 1/2 cup of milk.

the most important part? waiting until the pan is hot enough.

as soon as those bubble start rising on your pancake, it’s time to flip!

voila! nice buttery, crispy outside topped with some maple syrup.

ingredients

2 cups all purpose flour

1 tbsp. baking powder

1/2 tsp. salt

1 tbsp. sugar

2 eggs

1 1/2 – 2 cups of milk

2 tbsp. melted and cooled butter

1 tsp. vanilla extract

1 tsp. cinnamon and 1/2 tsp. nutmeg

directions:

1. preheat a griddle or large skillet over medium-low heat while you make the batter.
2. mix together the dry ingredients. Beat the egg into 1½ cups of milk, then stir in the 2 tablespoons melted cooled butter and vanilla. gently stir this into the dry ingredients, mixing only enough to moisten the flour; don’t worry about a few lumps. if the batter seems thick, add a little more milk.
3. if your skillet or griddle is nonstick, you can cook the pancakes without any butter. otherwise, use a teaspoon or two of butter or oil each time you add batter. when the butter foam subsides or the oil shimmers, ladle batter onto the griddle or skillet, making any size pancakes you like. adjust the heat as necessary; usually, the first batch will require higher heat than subsequent batches. the idea is to brown the bottom in 2 to 4 minutes, without burning it. flip when the pancakes are cooked on the bottom; they won’t hold together well until they’re ready.
4. cook until the second side is lightly browned and serve, or hold on an ovenproof plate in a 200-degrees oven for up to 15 minutes.

brookies

the name says it all. this “brownie-meets-cookie” treat in the clinton st. baking company cookbook combines two of the most well-loved goods into one chewy, rich mouthful.  i ate them only a couple minutes after their departure from the oven, and they really hit the spot with an ice-cold glass of milk. my only complaint was that they lost some of their freshness after only two/three days in our cookie jar (but we still loved the flavor and ate them anyway).

the batter texture and liquidity was much more like brownie batter than cookie batter, but they ended up baking nicely. i spaced them about 1.5 – 2 inches apart.

the finished product, below.

brookie recipe below from the clinton st. baking company cookbook

makes eighteen to twenty

ingredients
1 tbsp. canola oil
1 tsp. unsalted butter
2 c. semisweet chocolate chunks (52-62% cacao)
2 large eggs
¾ c. light brown sugar
½ tsp. vanilla extract
½ c. all-purpose flour
¼ tsp. baking powder
¼ tsp. salt
1. while the oven preheats to 350°, melt the oil, butter, and 1 cup of the chocolate together in the microwave on high heat for 2.5-3 minutes, stirring at 1-minute intervals. or melt the mixture in the stainless-steel bowl of a double boiler. Let cool.

2. in another bowl, whisk together eggs, brown sugar, and vanilla until combined. fold the melted chocolate mixture into the egg mixture.

3. whisk together the remaining dry ingredients in a separate bowl. combine the flour mixture with the chocolate mixture, and then fold in the remaining chocolate chunks.

4. freeze the batter in a shallow pan (such as a pie plate) 6-8 minutes until it sets and hardens slightly.

5. spray two cookie sheets with nonstick spray or line with parchment paper. scoop about 10 tablespoons of batter onto each sheet. bake 11-12 minutes, until the tops look dry and cracked (the insides will still be quite moist). cool completely. the brookies will be perfectly soft and chewy.

kitchen adventure: thomas keller’s chocolate chip cookie

in celebration of national cookie day...

there was a time, years ago, when i had the perfect chocolate chip cookie recipe.

“perfect”? well, at least to my taste.

it had a buttery batter that spread out wide on the cookie sheet, rendered crisp edges and a thin soft middle. gobs of chocolate melted easily.

and then i lost it.

i began baking my way through my recipe tear sheets and cookbooks, each time thinking that recipe would be the one. oh, the ones i baked were fine enough, they were never as good as i remembered. too cake-y. too heavy. if i tried to get them crispy, they’d be overbaked.

i started to wonder if ever really baked that “perfect” cookie. (the imagination is strong…)

this summer, allison baked thomas keller’s chocolate chip cookies .  i was comforted. if i never in fact had the recipe before, i did now. these cookies had all the qualities that i yearned for–plus a strong salt note. key to highlighting the chocolate.

hooray!

and then i made them myself, preparing them almost  to the recipe specifications–i used 2 kinds of chocolate that i had at home, semi sweet chocolate chips, and bittersweet chunks–but baked only one third of the entire batch (i ran out of time to bake the rest. but figured i’d store them unbaked for the following week when company came.  anyway, it’s always to have cookie dough in the freezer. “freshly baked” cookies, in minutes.)

i elected the minimum baking time (12 minutes).

i thought they were good–not as good as allison’s, but certainly better than any i’d made in years. i was, as they say, beyond excited to share them.

my sister and parents got the first taste. theirs was not the reaction i expected. an underwhelming  good…you can really taste the butter. and then my sister said, you know? these would be really great as an ice cream sandwich.

thomas keller’s chocolate chip cookies–as a CHIPWICH?

yeah, that sounded like a big, fat, FAIL to me.

i wasn’t sure what i did wrong. i was mightily disappointed. and i had all this other dough to bake…

next batch, i extended the oven time, closer to 22 minutes, in part because i, um, accidentally had the oven temperature at 325 rather than 350. whoops.

tastes testers for this round: handsome writer friend, cousins jen and jason, and sister. and the reaction was good. solidly good. really good. it was as if i’d attempted an entirely different recipe. i was happy– and relieved.

i wasn’t sure how to account for it exactly, but as fate would have it, only days later the october issue of saveur magazine arrived in the mail and helped explain “cakey v. chewy“: a higher temperature will set the cookies, and  the air pockets that build around chunks of chocolate will keep the cookies cakey. a lower temperature allows the dough to spread before setting. and the finer you  process the chocolate, the easier it will melt, allowing the dough to spread even more. good to consider, for next time (and for  other cookies recipes). but here’s keller’s (via thomas keller, and the amazing food gal):

chocolate chip cookies  (makes about thirty 3-inch cookies)

2 1/3 cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon kosher salt

5 ounces 55 percent chocolate, cut into chip-sized pieces

5 ounces 70 to 72 percent chocolate, cut into chip-sized pieces

8 ounces (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 cup packed dark brown sugar, preferably molasses sugar

3/4 cup granulated sugar

2 large eggs

–position racks in the lower and upper thirds of the oven and preheat oven to 350 degrees. line two baking sheets with silpats or parchment paper.

–sift flour and baking soda into a medium bowl. stir in the salt.

–put chips in a fine-mesh basket strainer and shake to remove any chocolate “dust” (small fragments).

–in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat half the butter on medium speed until fairly smooth. (aa: i used a handmixer). add both sugars and the remaining butter, and beat until well combined, then beat for a few minutes, until mixture is light and creamy. scrape down sides of the bowl. add eggs one at a time, beating until the first one is incorporated before adding the next and scraping the bowl as necessary. add dry ingredients and mix on low speed to combine. mix in chocolate.

–remove bowl from mixer and fold dough with a spatula to be sure the chocolate is evenly incorporated.

–using about 2 level tablespoons per cookie, shape dough into balls. arrange 8 cookies on each pan, leaving about 2 inches between them, because the dough will spread. bake for 12 minutes, or until the tops are no longer shiny, switching the position and rotating pans halfway through baking.

–cool cookies on the pans on cooling racks for about 2 minutes to firm up a bit, then transfer to the racks to cool completely. repeat with second batch of cookies.

***

their additional notes:

the two different chocolates–bittersweet and sweet– are intended to give the cookies balance. after you chop the chocolate, sift it to remove any tiny fragments–it will give the cookies a “cleaner” look.

the dough or shaped cookies can be refrigerated, well wrapped, for up to 5 days or frozen for 2 weeks. freeze shaped cookies on the baking sheets until firm, then transfer to freezer containers. (defrost frozen cookies overnight in the refrigerator before baking.)

if you prefer a cookie that’s a bit softer,  mist them with water prior to baking (as opposed to underbaking).

the cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

enjoy…

and if you have tips or other cookie recipes to share, feel free to email, or  just share them here…

***

all photos © anita aguilar

a thanksgiving feast

the time between the day before thanksgiving and christmas day is my favorite time of year. i guess it is for a lot of people, but here’s why it is so magical to me.  a) it is a state of pure joy. i love spending time with family and friends, being hectic, listening to music, and feeling cozy. b) i get to obsessively watch home alone two-three times a week without seeming crazy. c) i obsess over recipes. what to make? what to eat? what to bring to people’s apartments, houses, and holiday parties? the food options are endless this time of year! and it kicks off with thanksgiving.

here are a few photos:

the turkey (after years of being a white meat eater, i have started to absolutely crave dark meat)

brussels sprouts with bacon

cranberry sauce with dried cherries (recipe from everyday food)

cauliflower au gratin (recipe from barefoot in paris, by ina garten)

thinly sliced, roasted sweet and white potatoes with butter, salt and pepper

the stuffing! my uncle’s stuffing was excellent, and super flavorful

we took a quick breather before we hit the dessert table…pumpkin pie (without the added toppings, apple pie, chocolate crackle cookies, and almond cake (which i have no other photo of, but i LOVED)

bobby flay’s pumpkin pie with cinnamon crunch (the “crunch” gave some great added texture to the creamy pie)

my aunt and cousin’s traditional apple pie (with picture-perfect crust!)

an always-requested hit, chocolate crackle cookies

yabba dabba doo: blum’s coffee crunch cake

i’m an enthusiastic novice baker.

my kitchen is 86 x 62 inches.
the free space is closer to 3 feet by 2.

i try not to let its compact size suppress my ambition too much, but having a small space (and not much extra storage) means i can’t go crazy with tools and gadgets. so if a dessert can’t be made with a hand mixer and the pans i’ve got right now, then it can’t be made.

***

WOW is what i said the first time i saw a photo of blum’s coffee crunch cake–i can’t recall how i found my way to the valerie confections site, perhaps via daily candy? and i was thrilled to discover that martha stewart had made the recipe available on her site. i consulted the ladies in my family to see if i should attempt it for our next family get together. the photo inspired big eyes and big thumbs-ups from everyone (though i’m sure we all new the chances of success were…even). and i’m sure no one would have blamed me if i punted at the last minute and tried something a bit less intimidating.

but my philosophy was, if not this thanksgiving day, then when?

it was a pretty successful and pleasing first attempt–here are a few notes, in case you’re feeling inspired, too.

the strategy for me, since i had to get it nj on thursday morning, was to bake the cake and make the crunch topping the night before, and save the whipped cream icing and final decorating until thursday.

part 1:  cake and crunch

this recipe was less tricky than you might think, but it assumes a level of experience, i.e. when making this batter (essentially a lemon chiffon) you’ll know how long it takes for egg whites to form stiff, glossy peaks (for me, this was somewhere between 10 and 12 minutes).

same with the making the coffee crunch. there’s no timing given–just a temperature reading on a candy thermometer (which i don’t have).  i’ve become skilled at discerning the right amber color when making caramel, but my eyes weren’t much help here-the color of this mixture  was already dark brown. after the mix hit the boiling point and  i started to smell slightly burned coffee i panicked, and cut the cooking time short, to only a couple of minutes.

and to be honest, i may have added a bit too much corn syrup than the recipe called for (i’d had a glass of south african pinotaaage, whilst baking. it was the holidays after all!). the first batch looked butter-y. it had neither the look or taste of coffee. but it was densely sugary and it crumbled softly under my fingers, which was a relief.

but still, i had a feeling it was not quite right. since i had enough ingredients, i decided to try for round 2.

for the second batch, i paid closer attention. i was careful in measuring the sugar and corn syrup.  and i decided to use other candies i’d made as a guide and leave it to boil for 6 minutes, unless the i’m burning smell became really pronounced. the result was a darker caramel color, and a harder, truly brittle candy, with lots of good air pockets.

even if this wasn’t perfect, i suspected it was closer to what it should have been.

as to the cake itself, because i used a round pan rather than a tube pan, i needed to add an extra 5 minutes to the baking time–and that might have been a bit too much. next time i will divide the batter between 2 pans (or borrow a tube).

part 2:

the single, but universal criticism of this first attempt ? more icing. not really a criticism, more like a suggestion.

i will double the icing next time.

as far as the decorating, the application of the crumbs, it seemed to work out well, that i had two different batches of crunch. it added more interest, from a visual and taste/texture perspective.

my sister, my mom and my aunt all participated in the decorating. we had a disagreement when it came to breaking up the candies—i was convinced, based on the “martha” photo, that the candy pieces should be big shards. my sister and aunt were much more practical—how would you really cut the cake if the pieces were that big? and then, imagine what it will be like to eat?
they had a point. so we went with smaller pieces.

we tried a few different techniques for the application,
the gentle pat
the sprinkle
the errant toss (my favorite).
it’s not a neat affair, but it is FUN.

AND DELICIOUS.

it’s like something out of the flintstones, yes?

***
one last note: we finished decorating a few hours before dinner. mom was nervous about the whipped cream sagging or spoiling, and i was afraid a stint in the refrigerator would mar the texture of the icing or the crunch. our compromise was to leave it outside, in a carrying case. which is essentially, a fridge.

the candy did soften, but it wasn’t enough to ruin things. but next time, i’d leave it at room temp and prepare it at close as possible to serving time, just to preserve the “crunch.”