revelation: at the beer, bourbon, bbq festival

i don’t want imply that it’s taken for granted, but a nose-to-tail, apple-in-mouth roasted pig– lechon– is not uncommon to filipinos.
kid’s first birthday, family reunion, wedding, summer picnic…basically, if you’re celebrating something big, you’re doin it with a pig.

i myself, am not a huge fan. they say the flavor is in fat and the skin–and i don’t like the flavor or texture of either.
i like the white meat, but only with a generous amount of the sauce that traditionally accompanies it, a sauce made of liver and garlic and vinegar. maybe it doesn’t sound tasty--liver-- but that sauce redeems even the most overdone meat. and actually my favorite rendition of lechon is when all the meat and skin and bits that have been hacked apart with a giant, scary cleaver are stewed in that sauce. it’s called paksiw na lechon. served over a bed of white rice–it’s leftovers, but it feels even more indulgent and delicious, in my opinion, than when the pork is freshly served.

so being at the beer bourbon and bbq fest was familiar territory, from a culinary standpoint. but it didn’t mean it wasn’t revelatory.

for example, the term “pulled pork” to me means meat roasted to such a tenderness that it it’s easily pulled apart with your fork.
the gruesome and glorious sight of burly men, heavy duty gloves to their elbows, hunched over and reaching into a glistening, red, split pig and scooping a handful of thready pork onto your plate never struck my imagination.

pulled pork, now i get it.

but what was true for me about the lechon i’ve grown accustomed to, was true for most of the meat i tasted last night– a generous sauce, whether it’s a runny, hot, vinegary variety, or a thicker, sweeter kind, with a strong smoky chipotle note, is compulsory.

there was one very exceptional surprise: hill country bbq. they roast the pork in the pig. i had to think about that for a second. but what a good trick. double the flavor, double the tender fun. we had almost skipped the hill country table, thinking oh, we could get it anytime here in new york, but it was our favorite bbq of the festival.

to think, we almost took that for granted…

***

kristen and a little red pig…

jerk! (from black sauce kitchen)

little red pig bbq

my dinner selection, from little red pig bbq (north carolina pulled pork, brunswick stew, and slaw)

and…

best of the fest: hill country. texas-style bbq via midtown-west nyc…

tickle tickle

pork, chicken and campfire beans with burnt ends

***

kristen, richard, and allison

(thank you for inviting me along…)

“two city girls. lots of food.”

***

photos  © anita aguilar

food seen: winter fruit

at the red jacket orchards stand

squash from red jacket orchards, ny

pears, from breezy hill orchards, hudson valley, new york

feel like chicken tonight? (buttermilk baked chicken…)

how many chicken drumsticks can a girl who’s a hair under 5’1″ properly eat in one sitting?

perhaps it’s more a question of “should.”

i could probably eat 5 of these buttermilk baked drumsticks–oh, the crunchy, cheese crust and the tender, clean meat. they strain the willpower.

i wasn’t even planning to post this recipe (note that i didn’t even wipe down the sides of the plate for the photo –that’s bad food styling) but it deserves to be shared.

i don’t have a lot of experience with buttermilk, but i surmised there was a lot of room to play here. i decided to use the specific measurement for the buttermilk, but , inspired by a memory of nigella lawson preparing buttermilk roast chicken, i chose to marinate the chicken in the stuff overnight (ok, a few nights. does that seems risky?).  i used only drumsticks (budget-friendly, a priority for me post-holiday shopping spree) and i pulled off most of the skin (don’t we all resolve to eat healthfully in the new year?).  i swapped out thyme for dried oregano because that’s what was in my cupboard. and instead of buying sliced white bread, i used panko crumbs ( i wasn’t sure how many cups of crumbs would result from 8 slices, but i chose to use a bit more than the amount of parmigiano-reggiano cheese (so, 3/4 cheese; 1 cup of panko crumbs). i mixed the hot sauce into the marinade–it didn’t have much of an effect. it should have been added to the buttermilk marinade from the get-go.  i salted the drumsticks right before i rolled them around in their bed of cheese crumbs (i added the pepper to the crumb-oregano mixture)…

given the substitutions and some imprecise measurements, i was really only concerned that removing the skin would result in drier chicken.

but i baked these for exactly 40 minutes, and they were perfect.

delicious hot.

just as good cold.

i’ve heard even better a day or two after…

try it yourself…

(and: thank you, martha)

Ingredients:

Serves 4.

Vegetable oil, for baking sheet

8 slices white bread

1 cup buttermilk

1 teaspoon hot-pepper sauce

Salt and pepper

3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese (2 1/2 ounces)

1 teaspoon dried thyme

4 pounds chicken parts (preferably legs, thighs, and wings), rinsed and patted dry

Directions:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Generously rub a baking sheet with oil. In a food processor, pulse bread until it turns into coarse crumbs.

In a large bowl, stir together buttermilk, hot-pepper sauce, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. In a separate bowl, mix breadcrumbs, Parmesan, thyme, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper.

Place chicken in the buttermilk mixture, turning to coat evenly. Working with one piece at a time, remove chicken from liquid, letting excess drip back into bowl; dredge in the breadcrumb mixture, turning to coat evenly. Place coated chicken pieces on prepared baking sheet.

Bake until chicken is golden brown, about 35 minutes.

Note: Leave enough space between the chicken pieces so that they crisp evenly all the way around.

photos © anita aguilar

socorrat paella bar

never in my life have i had such delicious paella. i visited socorrat about three years ago, when it opened, and have been judging all other paellas against it since that fateful day. socorrat is named after the crusty layer of flavorful rice that sticks to the bottom of the paella pan, and about midway through the meal, someone at the restaurant comes over with a spatula, and scrapes all of the crusty goodness off of the bottom of the pan so it’s easy to access. no words can describe how delicious this actually is. in an ideal world. i’d be here once a week, feasting on the eight varieties of paella (and other wonderful sounding tapas) they make, but for now, my memories must have to do.

we started off with the flash-fried piquillo peppers ($7), which were pretty mild and really only slightly spicy when i got some of the seeds at the top, which i liked. they were these were perfect starter to a meal known to be filling. these dainty little bites were perfect, topped with salt and a little squeeze of lemon.

for our entrees, a group of four of us split two paellas. after much debate, we decided on the paella valenciana and the arroz negro (black rice). both were absolutely perfect.

the paella valenciana ($23 p/p), filled with chunks of pork rib & rabbit, snails, scallions, sugar snow peas, and asparagus, lived up to its stunning presentation. this was the dish that had been stuck in my memory for the past three years. the rice was just so flavorful and full, and each bite delivered another unique taste that was somehow comforting and new all at the same time.

the arroz negro ($23 p/p) consisted of “black rice” chunks of fish, squid ink, shrimp, squid, scallops and was equally as delicious as the valenciana, but in a completely different way. the juicy, tender, and chewy white grain rice is actually dyed black by the squid ink and is flavored strongly by the lovely medley of fresh fish in the dish. as full as i was, i just kept craving one more spoonful of this amazing paella. i can’t return soon enough!

socorrat paella bar is located at 259 west 19th st., between 7th and 8th avenues. phone:  (212) 462-1000

recipe: migas

this is probably an inauthentic recipe for migas, which i’ve been dreaming about and drooling over since my trip to austin in fall, but this version is easy, pretty healthy, and is equally as absolutely drool-worthy.

recipe for migas (serves 2)

• 1 small tomato, chopped
• 2-3 scallions, chopped
• 1/4 cup of grated cheese (any kind, really, but cheddar and monterey jack work best)
• 2 corn (or flour) tortillas
• 4 large eggs
• 3 tbsp. milk
• 1 tbsp. of butter or olive oil
• 1/2 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp. pepper

preheat the oven to 350 degrees. cut the corn tortillas (this is really easy if you just stack them on top of each other) into 1/4- 1/2 inch strips and lay them on a baking sheet. toast until they’re slightly crispy, about 20 minutes (this can be done ahead of time).

break the four eggs into a bowl, add the milk, salt and pepper and whisk. then, add the chopped tomatoes and chopped scallions and mix.

heat a skillet over medium-low heat. when hot, add the butter or olive oil and wait 30 seconds. then, pour the egg/vegetable mixture into the hot the pan. add the tortillas on top, and mix all of the ingredients around in the pan. stir about every minute. when the eggs are almost done cooking, add the grated cheese on top and give one final stir. you’re done! serve on plates, with hot sauce if you like. enjoy.

the chopped tomatoes, scallions and grated cheese

the chopped and toasted tortilla strips

the eggs, salt and pepper

all of the eggs and veggies in the pan, with the toasted tortilla strips on top

the final product. hot, cheesy, chewy and slightly spicy (thanks to some hot sauce) – the perfect mexican breakfast

kiss the cook: lidia bastianich’s italian-american lasagna with meat sauce

so you know those cheesy “kiss the cook” aprons?

i finally get it.

this year, for our family’s new year’s dinner, i decided to prepare joe’s stone crab key lime pie, a chocolate date cake with sticky toffee glaze (a martha stewart recipe) and lidia bastianich’s italian-american lasagna with meat sauce. i didn’t think it was too terribly ambitious–3 dishes? but by 9:30 on new year’s eve night, i was done. spent. “happy new year, over and out.”

how do all the women in my family–and hosts and hostesses all over the globe–pull together an entire menu and still survive the dinner party itself?

i vow from now on to be an ever kinder dinner guest…

but let’s talk lidia’s lasagna. my mom mentioned seeing ms. bastianich prepare the dish on the today show. i figured if i were to make a first attempt at a meat lasagna i could trust the recipe of the grande dame of italian cooking.

i’ve made this recipe twice this winter and it’s perfect for the season–the sauce asks you to set aside 3 hours for simmering. it’s pleasurable–i don’t know how to describe the smell of tomato sauce–but i just had a wonderful feeling, listening to the simmer, watching the redness of the tomatoes mellow and deepen. i suppose it’s the anticipation, the promise of richness, the sheer volume (meat sauce for 12!) that makes it feel special.

i made it for the first time, for handsome writer friend. i don’t have a food mill, so i crushed the whole tomatoes instead. i left out the pork neck bones, because i couldn’t get myself to the butcher shop before closing time. this dish is really all about the sauce–and even without the neck bones as its foundation, it was uncommonly good. i was pressed for time when it came time to assemble the rest of the dish–barilla’s “no bake” lasagna sheets saved prep time (and clean-up. we like that). i didn’t measure or drain the ricotta (it didn’t seem to need it) and i decided to absolve myself of her rules of order for layering (meat sauce, pasta, parmigiano-reggiano, noodles, mozzarella, noodles, mozzarella, meat…on and on.). handsome writer friend was sitting with me (looking handsome and hungrier by the minute) and i was starting to get nervous, so i just layered it any old way.

it was good and plenty–lasagna leftovers for the full week that followed.

when i made it for our new year’s party, i left out the neck bones in the sauce and substituted beef broth for the wine (one of my cousins is allergic). i took care to drain the ricotta this time–and noticed that the original recipe that i consulted on the nbc site was missing an important detail: the exact amount of ricotta cheese required. i was able to find the full recipe online (thanks to random house) and i followed the rest of the recipe to a tee.  i think those small adjustments made a difference: there’s is probably room to vary the layers, but the undrained ricotta undermined the richness of the sauce that took so long to get right–so please don’t cheat that step.

and then…prepare to be kissed.

***

recipes via random house:

Italian-American meat sauce (recipe below)

• Salt
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 pounds lasagna noodles
• 2 large eggs
• 2 1/2 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
• 1 pound mozzarella cheese, preferably fresh, sliced thin

Line a sieve with a double thickness of cheesecloth or a basket-type coffee filter. Place the ricotta over the cheesecloth and set the sieve over a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or up to 1 day. Discard the liquid that drains into the bowl. Make the meat sauce.

Bring 6 quarts of salted water and the olive oil to a boil in an 8-quart pot over high heat. Stir about one-third of the lasagna noodles into the boiling water. Return to a boil, stirring frequently. Cook the pasta, semi-covered, stirring occasionally, until al dente, 8 to 10 minutes.

While the pasta is cooking, set a large bowl of ice water next to the stove. When the lasagna noodles are al dente, remove them with a wire skimmer and transfer to the ice water. Let them stand until completely chilled. Repeat the cooking and cooling with the remaining two batches of lasagna noodles. When the cooked noodles are chilled, remove them from the ice bath and stack them on a baking sheet, separating each layer with a clean, damp kitchen towel.

While the noodles are cooking, beat the eggs with a pinch of salt in a mixing bowl until foamy. Add the ricotta and stir until thoroughly blended. Preheat oven to 375° F.

To assemble the lasagne, ladle about 3/4 cup of the meat sauce over the bottom of a 15 x 10-inch baking dish. Arrange noodles lengthwise and side by side so as to cover the bottom of the baking dish and overhang the short ends of the dish by about 2 inches. (A little “cut and paste” might be necessary. Also, the noodles will most likely overlap in the center of the dish. That is fine.) Spoon enough meat sauce, about 2 cups, to cover the noodles in an even layer. Sprinkle the sauce with 1/2 cup of the grated cheese. Arrange a single layer of noodles crosswise over the cheese so they overhang the long sides of the baking dish by about 2 inches, trimming the noodles and overlapping them as necessary. Spread the ricotta mixture evenly over the noodles. Arrange a single layer of noodles lengthwise over the ricotta, trimming the noodles as necessary. Arrange the sliced mozzarella in an even layer over the noodles. Spread 1 cup of the meat sauce over the cheese and sprinkle 1 cup of grated cheese over the sauce. Cover with a layer of noodles, arranged lengthwise. Spoon enough meat sauce, about 2 cups, to cover the noodles in an even layer, and sprinkle the sauce with 1/2 cup grated cheese. Turn the noodles overhanging the sides and ends of the dish over the lasagna, leaving a rectangular uncovered space in the middle. Spread a thin layer of meat sauce over the top layer of noodles. Sprinkle with the remaining grated cheese. Cover loosely with aluminum foil and bake 45 minutes.

Uncover the lasagna and continue baking until the top is crusty around the edges, about 20 minutes. Let rest at least 30 minutes or up to 3 hours before cutting and serving. To rewarm a lasagna that has been standing, cover it loosely with foil and place in a 325° F oven until heated through, 15 to 45 minutes, depending on how long it has been standing.

***

Italian-American Meat Sauce

• Two 35-ounce cans Italian plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 medium yellow onions, diced (about 2 cups)
• 6 to 8 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped fine
• 5 or 6 meaty pork neck bones (about 3/4 pound)
• 1 pound ground beef
• 1 pound ground pork
• Salt
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 1/3 cup tomato paste
• 4 bay leaves
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably the Sicilian or Greek type, dried on the branch, crumbled
• 3 to 4 cups hot water

Pass the tomatoes and their liquid through a food mill fitted with the fine blade. Set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy 4- to 5-quart pot over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 8 minutes. Make a little room in the center of the pot, dump in the garlic and cook, stirring, until the garlic is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add the pork bones and cook, turning, until lightly browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add the ground beef and pork and season lightly with salt. Cook, stirring to break up the meat, until the meat changes color and the water it gives off is boiled away, about 10 minutes. Continue cooking until the meat is browned, about 5 minutes. Add the bay leaves and oregano, then pour in the wine. Bring to a boil and cook, scraping up the brown bits that cling to the pot, until the wine is almost completely evaporated. Pour in the tomatoes, then stir in the tomato paste until it is dissolved. Season lightly with salt. Bring to a boil, adjust the heat to a lively simmer and cook, uncovered, stirring often, until the sauce takes on a deep, brick-red color, 2 to 3 hours. Add the hot water, about ½ cup at a time, as necessary to maintain the level of liquid for the length of time the sauce cooks.

Skim off any fat floating on top and adjust the seasoning as necessary. The sauce can be prepared entirely in advance and refrigerated for up to 5 days, or frozen for up to 3 months.

friedman’s lunch

every time i go to chelsea market i end up wandering around aimlessly, salivating thinking about how much i want to eat and drink everything in those long hallways. bakeries? amy’s bread. fat witch. eleni’s. jaques torres. coffee? ninth street espresso. seafood? the lobster place. ice cream? l’arte del gelato. i could eat every meal in chelsea market for the next seven days and still have more to try. but where to go for lunch? i had never been to friedman’s lunch before, and the menu looked like the perfect (and relatively budget friendly) antidote to a cold winter day. soups, sandwiches, salads, full plates (fried chicken!), desserts and sides (homemade potato chips!) were knocking at my door, so i went in.

first came the lentil soup ($3). really hearty, filling and more flavorful than many i’ve tried. i couldn’t put my name on the exact spice (cumin, perhaps?) but something made the soup really smokey and deep. i really loved it.

next was the chicken salad sandwich with lettuce & tomato on whole wheat bread, with a side of greens ($9.50). the chicken was cut into 1/2-inch squares and lightly coated with good mayo and tarragon. i would have actually preferred a slightly softer bread, but all in all, this sandwich was a keeper.

finally, we had the meatloaf sandwich special ($12) with provolone cheese, caramelized onions and meatloaf on a fresh portuguese roll. this sandwich was by far, the best meatloaf sandwich i have ever had. the meatloaf was exceptionally moist and soft, and the gooey cheese melted with the caramelized onions to create the perfect medley of flavors.

i’m definitely going to take another trip back for the fried chicken, mac and cheese and homemade potato chips. and maybe after, i’ll treat myself to a fat witch brownie!

friedman’s lunch is located at 75 9th avenue in chelsea market

holiday sweets (belated)

the best part about the holidays? the massive amounts of delicious desserts.

butterscotch blondies

carrot cake mini cupcakes adapted from food & wine’s january 2010 issue

“honeymoon cake”  with grand marnier (from my aunt maria)

my aunt alida’s famous annual cookie plate (including, but not limited to, cardamom crisps, chewy ginger cookies, linzer cookies, chocolate mint cookies and lemon cookies)

coconut sandwich cookies from martha stewart cookies

a festive pumpkin log

my personal (new) favorite cookie of the year: toffee millionaires from martha stewart

gooey chocolate butter cookies from paula deen (not a favorite – these tasted a little bit like cakey prepacked brownies)

bacon bits: chocolate chip-bacon-pecan cookies

my first time (with bacon): the  cowboy cookie at cowboy ciao, in scottsdale…october 18, 2007

***

while the origin of the cowboy cookie isn’t clear, if you’ve ever had one you’ll understand why its aptly named.
it’s hearty (enough to provide sustenance…during a long ride across…the great plains).
it’s sturdy (enough to survive…being tossed about in your pocket… during a rodeo).
coconut and pecans provide a boost of energy (for all that wrangling).
chocolate soothes the (lonely) soul.
bacon makes it…american?

oh, let’s just say bacon makes it.

i understand if you think the idea of bacon in a cookie sounds a bit gimmicky. but if you love the stuff and are intrigued by the idea of marrying it with something sweet, i’ve tested a recipe for chocolate chip-bacon-pecan cookies, courtesy of susan russo that will most assuredly win you over.

these share the vigorous flavor of cowboy cookies, but they’re crisp and  slim. (the cowgirl cookie?)

the recipe requires only 5 slices of bacon; the effect is seductive, not overpowering.

semi-sweet chocolate chips, pecans, and finely chopped bacon

***

susan russo’s chocolate chip bacon pecan cookies

yield:  about 18 thin-and-chewy cookies

5 strips bacon

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter at room temperature

1/2 cup white sugar

1/3 cup light brown sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2/3 cups semisweet chocolate chips

1/2 cup chopped pecans

In a large skillet over medium heat, cook bacon, turning several times, until browned and done, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Chop finely.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk flour, baking soda and salt.

In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugars. Add egg and vanilla extract, and beat until just blended. Add the dry ingredients; beat until just incorporated and the flour is dissolved. Stir in the chocolate chips, pecans and bacon.

Drop one large tablespoon cookie dough 2 to 3 inches apart (as they will spread) on baking sheet. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until firm and golden brown around the edges, and still slightly soft in the center. Transfer to a rack and cool for 15 minutes.

Can be stored on countertop for one to two days, then refrigerated in an airtight container.

these are  too rich to become a regular “after school” or midnight snack.

but they’re perfect for gifting (i presented some to my cousin at christmas) or  your upcoming super bowl party.

let them be special.

***

if you prefer a “cakier” cookie, ms. russo offers a variation in her npr piece “bacon gets its just desserts,” and recipes for other porky sweets: chocolate bacon-peanut-bark, peanut butter-maple-bacon fudge and maple-apple-bacon cake with maple glaze.

***

all photos © anita aguilar

recipe: grandma’s pot roast

no one ever really talks about (or seems to make) pot roast anymore. when i was a little kid, one of my favorite memories was driving over to my grandma’s house for her classic pot roast and gravy. she hasn’t been able to cook in a couple of years, and when i last visited her, my cousin and i couldn’t stop thinking of our memories surrounding her delicious pot roast dinners. the pot roast was always so incredibly moist and tender, and the gravy was the most flavorful i’ve had in my life. i needed to recreate this meal, pronto. i love this dish served with some buttery mashed potatoes (perfect for soaking up the gravy) and a side salad. this roast came out wonderfully, with the same flavors and juices that i remember, only i don’t know if it could ever be the same as the one i used to eat at her house.

recipe: grandma’s pot roast

ingredients:

- a 2.5-3.5 lb beef roast

- 4 cloves of garlic

- 1 onion, sliced

- 2 tsp. cornstarch

- salt and freshly grated black pepper

directions:

preheat the oven to 425 degrees. place the sliced garlic,  sliced onion, salt and black pepper in the bottom of the pot.  stand the roast in the middle of the pot & rub top with olive oil and pour salt and black pepper all around & on top of the roast.

brown  the meat (this takes about 25 minutes). then pour 1 cup of water, cover and lower the tempetaure at 350 degrees.

mix in ¼ of water and about 2 tsp. of cornstarch (you may need more, but you can add until you reach the thickness you desire).

when the roast is done, take the “drippings” from the roaster and make gravy separately on top of the stove, adding the cornstarch mixture. serve with whatever sides you like (my choice? mashed potatoes that soak up the gravy, and a nice green salad.