hundred acres

of the countless reasons to adore brunch at hundred acres, here are a few:

a bouquet, at a clean well-tended bar

a bloody mary, with bite

simple charm

crisp, de-”light”-ful ricotta fritters

goat cheese bread pudding.

savory bread puddings seem to have eluded me to this point, but now there’s no turning back.

the goat cheese seems perfect here:  it allows the “custard” to keep its lightness, but its flavor is assured.

***

photos © anita aguilar

balaboosta: love her two times

my second trip to balaboosta — again with the lovely ms. rachel– was a brunch time affair.

i love everything about the place, top to middle to toe. i mean it, from the wood plank ceilings to the service to the dessert wines. but i am glad that my first taste came at dinner, simply because some of their most memorable and intriguing–and sexiest sounding–dishes live on that menu. meats and veggies with chirchi sauce, harissa oils, nigella seeds and silan (that’s date syrup. who wouldn’t want some date syrup?)

maybe i’m also a little less hungry at 11am, than at 8pm?

still though, brunch was very good…

the mediterranean sampler, mostly done. and rachel’s choice: green eggs, with potato-yam rusti and feta salad.

i wasn’t sure the lamb burger would be on the brunch menu– i practically cheered that it was. stuffed with herbed goat cheese and topped with caramelized onions, the lamb itself was cooked a few minutes past  what i’d consider ideal, but the voluptuous aioli redeemed everything.

***

balaboosta, on 214 mulberry st (off spring) is open for brunch on saturdays and sundays, from 11am-3:30.

parties of 6 or more can secure a reservation; the rest can enjoy the bar ambience while waiting for a table (or be an early bird).

way out…west? octavia’s porch

whenever i think of ethnic food, i imagine dishes that are earthy and intense, with distinctive flavors that by sight and smell and taste remind someone, somewhere abroad, of “home.” when i think of korean, indian, filipino, japanese, italian, i can think of 1, 2, 3 flavors at least that mark the meal as a sensory experience, and it doesn’t have to be pleasing to everyone (kimchi is my kryptonite). perhaps it is an affinity for most strange or stinky or the most intolerably fishy or salty thing that separates the natives from the rest?

so, i went to octavia’s porch, a restaurant that celebrates global jewish cuisine–as they describe it, encompassing eastern europe, south africa, morocco, spain, portugal, italy– with some expectations: a punch of lemon, rich and thick tahini and beans, nut and olive and dried fruit accents, and dill. i expected smoky preparations and pickled sides. but i suppose more than anything, i expected the fare to be good and hearty. the culture references were wide, and the thoughtful menu presented one deliciously hard choice after another.

but as much as i enjoyed the selections my friend rachel and i made during our first visit, the modern, fresh, but lightly flavored fare reminded me of only one place: california.

***

“a schmear” – white bean, lemon and chive dip, with an assortment of homemade breads.

i love white bean dip, but think it needs one dominant flavor added to it, to bring it to life. my sister makes a family favorite that’s heavy on garlic and rosemary. this one could have used more lemon, more chive –and maybe a dollop or two of tahini to give it a richer note. and a bit of sea salt.

duck and sweet potato hash: i had high hopes for this one, because it’s rarely a bad combination. the problem here is that it’s not a hash. these finely prepared components were mixed, but not married. and they were barely salted.

red quinoa salad green beans, pumpkin seeds and citrus: this is perfect. a must have,  again and again.

here you have nutty grains, crunchy green beans,  juicy fruit, mingling with a perky reduction–i think balsamic.

salmon & scrambled eggs on rye with lime creme fraiche, cinnamon-honey roasted tomatoes.

call this one the beauty queen: pretty, stacked…not much else…

here’s where we realize a pattern: as with the other dishes, there is imagination and hints of technique here, but a really weak instinct for seasoning. the salmon is gently poached,  but the skin wasn’t crisp or salty;  the eggs tender, but also wan. i was principally sold on this dish for the cinnamon-honey roasted tomatoes, but i think i missed the sweet spices entirely? the creme fraiche was plain wrong:  it was too limey, too sweet (it reminded me of cheesecake) and too thick to spread. what was i supposed to spread this on anyway? the rye toast was to delicate and dry to handle it. this assemblage badly needs something to unify it, to make all these elements become one dish.

but: there is a big finish, in the form of banana challah bread pudding. it is beautifully realized. the slices of fresh banana that live inside this loaf, and are caramelized on top, give a clean flavor.  i prefer this to other banana bread puddings made out of, well, banana bread. the fresh fruit does the work of amping all the flavors here. in the pudding itself there is lightness–and it’s a surprise here, too. but it’s a right one. love the slivers of fresh mint, too.

i feel a little bad writing some of this now– i had a lovely time with rachel and we cooed about the meal as it was happening, talked enthusiastically about coming back… only in retrospect did i realize what was missing, for me. sure, the dishes we had lacked the strength and depth to “transport,” but there are still good things at octavia’s porch. and with so many other intriguing dishes on the menu, i still think it’s worth booking a return.

***

octavia’s porch is at 40 avenue b, new york 10009 (bet 3rd & 4th st)

lil room, lots of time, lil frankie’s

the goal was to find a spot where 6 or 7 (somewhat finicky) eaters could enjoy a reasonably priced, unpretentious meal, while we debate (trash talk) our oscar pool selections.

lil’ frankie’s on 1st and 1st fit the bill. their $15.95 prix fixe menu, includes a cocktail and coffee/tea/juice and a fairly extensive list of  sandwiches (basics like grilled cheese, a blt, or a bacon-egg-cheese, with italiante flourishes, like fontina cheese and cibatta bread),  salads (pear and gorgonzola–very tempting), eggs (baked or fried or poached or “omeletted”)  and for those with a more dominant sweet tooth: pancakes and french toast and tartines with peanut butter and jelly and banana or…nutella and strawberries.

i was in the mood for lil’ meatballs, so it was an easy choice for me (though i did spend the two days prior thinking about it. because that’s just what i like to do. menu gaze…).

lil’ frankie’s is actually spacious, but our table for 6 was way too cozy. an attentive waitstaff would have noticed and would have at least asked if the setup was suitable, especially since there was no one else in the place and it didn’t seem it would take much to seat us elsewhere, or bring over another table for two. my dining companions didn’t seem to mind the inconvenience enough to complain, but it was not a good way to start things off.

the service was, objectively, slow to arrive, but it was balanced out by the amount of time they allowed us to linger over our meal. so i would call it a “draw.”

polpettine and eggs: the meatballs are the cutest i’ve ever seen. it’s like they’re made with elfin magic.

the gravy/sauce had nicely balanced acidity and a kiss of sweetness.

the simple description of this dish inspired dreams: i imagined, with a prick of the fork, the  yolk of gently baked eggs spreading like lava all over the ragu, and my emergency crew (that nice piece of cibatta) could get to the work of cleaning it all up. sadly, the eggs were overdone.

but it wasn’t enough to dissuade me from another visit, and my friends and i departed thinking we’d found for our “oscar club” il ristorante perfetto.

“vederla l’anno prossimo…”

***

lil’ frankie’s, at 19 first avenue, is a cash only establishment.

have a look at their menus, which are updated with daily specials. i’ve enjoyed their pasta, but i’ve not yet had their neapolitan pies, so if you go (or have been) feel free to send along your thoughts or recommendations….

extra virgin: the first time

i was still living in the west village when extra virgin opened, but never made it there before packing up and away to the LES and murray hill, and it simply fell off my radar until this weekend when my friend zovig suggested it for brunch. i welcomed her idea in part because i was just so happy that it still lived there. the notion of a basque scramble (pepperonata, creamy polenta, salsa verde, avocado puree, and…chorizo), a smoked salmon and potato tart, or roasted artichoke provençal, cinched the deal.

we were lucky, at 12:30 to snag a window table for two, a high counter, right above the  heater (set to HIGH) to warm our toes. the whole scene, overlooking west 4th street and its parade of strollers (with strollers?) was a nice comfort, a way to soothe the readjustment back to WINTER, after a sunny, tease of spring the day before.

we loved the coffee cups….

i opted for the roasted artichoke provençal…

it was a gorgeous dish, really fresh and really simple.

can you see the grain of the parmesan, the delicately poached egg white?

i love the graceful neck of the artichoke.

and the contralto to this heavenly chorus:  nice smoky bites of pancetta.

there was one thing missing for me: a few slices of hearty peasant bread to soak up the medley of yolk and cheese bits and dressing (presumably made of extra virgin olive oil). shouldn’t good bread be compuslory at an establishment that purports to offer choice olive oils?

maybe the olive oil was so dipping delicious the night before that there was none left over?

(maybe  i get lucky next time.)

***

extra virgin is at 259 west 4th street. reservations for parties of 6 or more; call 212.691.9359

recipe: (irresistible) sticky buns

if you’re as much of a sweet tooth as i am, then i can guarantee you something. you will not, i mean, WILL NOT be able to resist these sticky buns. i first saw them on an episode of throwdown with bobby flay, then read about them on serious eats, then heard from a friend who tried them that they were life-changing. i was basically ready to take a trip to boston’s flour bakery to buy these sticky buns of my dreams. but wait! i got ahold of the recipe in the flour bakery cookbook (it is also in the throwdown cookbook) and knew instantly that i need to bake this treat as soon as possible. and what better excuse to eat sugary things than valentine’s day?

i adapted the recipe slightly by omitting the pecans and substituting whole wheat flour for bread flour. i must admit that this recipe was a ton of work. not  a throw-everything-in-a-bowl-and-mix type of project. this is definitely a weekend event, as the dough needs time to proof and such, but if you ask me (and my deliciously happy belly), it was completely worth it. these sticky buns were the best i’ve ever tasted! the brioche dough is super soft and moist, with a cinnamon-sugar filling, oodles of goo on the bottom and some more goo spooned on top. these are best served warm, but are quite easy to reheat in the oven.

the dough (below) was quite easy to roll out

the “goo” was incredibly easy to make (and involves more butter and sugar than i cared to tell the people who were eating the buns)

the goo pours right into the bottom of the pan, and the cinnamon rolls just bake on top of it, soaking up all of the decadent flavor

the finished product, with a sprinkle of cinnamon on top

recipe for sticky buns courtesy of flour bakery

ingredients for the goo:

• 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks; 170 grams, 6 ounces) unsalted butter
• 1 1/2 cups (345 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar
• 1/3 cup (110 grams) honey
• 1/3 cup (80 grams) heavy cream
• 1/3 cup (80 grams) water
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• Basic Brioche Dough, recipe follows
• 1/4 cup (55 grams) light brown sugar
• 1/4 cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 cup (100 grams) pecan halves, toasted and chopped

First, make the goo. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk in the brown sugar and cook, stirring, to combine (it may look separated, that’s ok). Remove from the heat and whisk in the honey, cream, water, and salt. Strain to remove any undissolved lumps of brown sugar. Let cool for about 30 minutes, or until cooled to room temperature. You should have about 3 cups. (The mixture can be made up to 2 weeks in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.)

Divide the dough in half. Use half for this recipe and reserve the other half for another use.

On a floured work surface, roll out the brioche into rectangle about 12 by 16 inches and 1/4-inch thick. It will have the consistency of cold, damp Play-Doh and should be fairly easy to roll. Position the rectangle so a short side is facing you.

In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar, granulated sugar, cinnamon, and half of the pecans. Sprinkle this mixture evenly over the entire surface of the dough. Starting from the short side farthest from you and working your way down, roll up the rectangle like a jelly roll. Try to roll tightly, so you have a nice round spiral. Trim off about 1/4- inch from each end of the roll to make them even.

Use a bench scraper or a chef’s knife to cut the roll into 8 equal pieces, each about 1 1/2-inches wide. (At this point, the unbaked buns can be tightly wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen for up to 1 week. When ready to bake, thaw them, still wrapped, in the refrigerator overnight or at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, then proceed as directed.)

Pour the goo into a 9 by 13-inch baking dish, covering the bottom evenly. Sprinkle the remaining pecans evenly over the surface. Arrange the buns, evenly spaced, in the baking dish. Cover with plastic wrap and put in a warm spot to proof until the dough is puffy, pillowy, and soft and the buns are touching-almost tripled in size, about 2 hours.

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat to 350 degrees F.

Bake until golden brown, about 35 to 45 minutes. Let cool in the dish on a wire rack for 20 to 30 minutes. One at a time, invert the buns onto a serving platter, and spoon any extra goo and pecans from the bottom of the dish over the top.

The buns are best served warm or within 4 hours of baking. They can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day, and then warmed in a 325 degree F oven for 10 to 12 minutes before serving.

ingredients for brioche dough:

• 2 1/2 cups (350 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more if needed
• 2 1/4 cups (340 grams) bread flour
• 1 1/2 packages (3 1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast or 1-ounce (28 grams) fresh cake yeast
• 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon (82 grams) sugar
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 1/2 cup cold water
• 6 eggs
• 1 3/8 cups (2 3/4 sticks; 310 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 10 to 12 pieces

Using a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the all-purpose flour, bread flour, yeast, sugar, salt, water, and 5 of the eggs. Beat on low speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until all the ingredients are combined. Stop the mixer, as needed, to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl to make sure all the flour is incorporated into the wet ingredients. Once the dough has come together, beat on low speed for another 3 to 4 minutes. The dough will be very stiff and seem quite dry.

With the mixer on low speed, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, mixing after each addition until it disappears into the dough. Continue mixing on low speed for about 10 minutes, stopping the mixer occasionally to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl. It is important for all the butter to be thoroughly mixed into the dough. If necessary, stop the mixer occasionally and break up the dough with your hands to help mix in the butter.

Once the butter is completely incorporated, turn up the speed to medium and beat until the dough becomes sticky, soft, and somewhat shiny, another 15 minutes. It will take some time to come together. It will look shaggy and questionable at the start and then eventually it will turn smooth and silky. Turn the speed to medium-high and beat for about 1 minute. You should hear the dough make a slap-slap-slap sound as it hits the sides of the bowl. Test the dough by pulling at it; it should stretch a bit and have a little give. If it seems wet and loose and more like a batter than a dough, add a few tablespoons of flour and mix until it comes together. If it breaks off into pieces when you pull at it, continue to mix on medium speed for another 2 to 3 minutes, or until it develops more strength and stretches when you grab it. It is ready when you can gather it all together and pick it up in 1 piece.

Put the dough in a large bowl or plastic container and cover it with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap directly onto the surface of the dough. Let the dough proof (that is, grow and develop flavor) in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours or up to overnight At this point you can freeze the dough in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

recipe: migas

this is probably an inauthentic recipe for migas, which i’ve been dreaming about and drooling over since my trip to austin in fall, but this version is easy, pretty healthy, and is equally as absolutely drool-worthy.

recipe for migas (serves 2)

• 1 small tomato, chopped
• 2-3 scallions, chopped
• 1/4 cup of grated cheese (any kind, really, but cheddar and monterey jack work best)
• 2 corn (or flour) tortillas
• 4 large eggs
• 3 tbsp. milk
• 1 tbsp. of butter or olive oil
• 1/2 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp. pepper

preheat the oven to 350 degrees. cut the corn tortillas (this is really easy if you just stack them on top of each other) into 1/4- 1/2 inch strips and lay them on a baking sheet. toast until they’re slightly crispy, about 20 minutes (this can be done ahead of time).

break the four eggs into a bowl, add the milk, salt and pepper and whisk. then, add the chopped tomatoes and chopped scallions and mix.

heat a skillet over medium-low heat. when hot, add the butter or olive oil and wait 30 seconds. then, pour the egg/vegetable mixture into the hot the pan. add the tortillas on top, and mix all of the ingredients around in the pan. stir about every minute. when the eggs are almost done cooking, add the grated cheese on top and give one final stir. you’re done! serve on plates, with hot sauce if you like. enjoy.

the chopped tomatoes, scallions and grated cheese

the chopped and toasted tortilla strips

the eggs, salt and pepper

all of the eggs and veggies in the pan, with the toasted tortilla strips on top

the final product. hot, cheesy, chewy and slightly spicy (thanks to some hot sauce) – the perfect mexican breakfast

friedman’s lunch

every time i go to chelsea market i end up wandering around aimlessly, salivating thinking about how much i want to eat and drink everything in those long hallways. bakeries? amy’s bread. fat witch. eleni’s. jaques torres. coffee? ninth street espresso. seafood? the lobster place. ice cream? l’arte del gelato. i could eat every meal in chelsea market for the next seven days and still have more to try. but where to go for lunch? i had never been to friedman’s lunch before, and the menu looked like the perfect (and relatively budget friendly) antidote to a cold winter day. soups, sandwiches, salads, full plates (fried chicken!), desserts and sides (homemade potato chips!) were knocking at my door, so i went in.

first came the lentil soup ($3). really hearty, filling and more flavorful than many i’ve tried. i couldn’t put my name on the exact spice (cumin, perhaps?) but something made the soup really smokey and deep. i really loved it.

next was the chicken salad sandwich with lettuce & tomato on whole wheat bread, with a side of greens ($9.50). the chicken was cut into 1/2-inch squares and lightly coated with good mayo and tarragon. i would have actually preferred a slightly softer bread, but all in all, this sandwich was a keeper.

finally, we had the meatloaf sandwich special ($12) with provolone cheese, caramelized onions and meatloaf on a fresh portuguese roll. this sandwich was by far, the best meatloaf sandwich i have ever had. the meatloaf was exceptionally moist and soft, and the gooey cheese melted with the caramelized onions to create the perfect medley of flavors.

i’m definitely going to take another trip back for the fried chicken, mac and cheese and homemade potato chips. and maybe after, i’ll treat myself to a fat witch brownie!

friedman’s lunch is located at 75 9th avenue in chelsea market

recipe: focaccia

for something i love so much, i really don’t make a lot of homemade bread. and by not a lot, i mean i can count the times i’ve made it in my life on one hand.

when we were snowed in this past week, i had a craving for warm, doughy fresh bread, and there was none to be found. but alas, we had a package of yeast in the house, which was the inspiration for this focaccia. i found this easy recipe in the january issue of food & wine, and changed it slightly to accomodate what we had in the house. the bread was best the day it was made, but was also nice when reheated the next day. 

recipe: rosemary, onion, garlic and feta focaccia

makes one 9×13 loaf

ingredients

• 1 cup warm water
• 1 package active dry yeast
• 1/2 teaspoon honey
• 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 large onion, thinly sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary
• 3 tablespoons feta cheese (optional)

directions

1. in a large bowl, combine the water, yeast and honey and let stand for 5 minutes. stir in 1 cup of the flour and 1/4 cup of the oil; let stand for 5 minutes. stir in the remaining flour and the salt and knead until smooth. transfer to an oiled bowl, cover with plastic and let stand for 1 hour.
2. meanwhile, in a skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. add the onion, cover and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. add the garlic and cook for 5 more minutes.
3. preheat the oven to 450°. oil a 9-by-13 inch rimmed baking sheet. transfer the dough to the sheet and press it down to fit. dimple the dough all over with your fingers and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. let the dough rise until puffed, about 20 minutes.
4. Scatter the onions, garlic, rosemary and feta over the dough, topping with a little bit more olive oil. bake for 20 minutes, until golden. transfer to a rack to cool.

kneading the dough is definitely the most tedious part, but if you don’t think about the flour-y mess you’re creating in your kitchen, it’s actually kind of fun!

i had to really push, stretch and spread the dough around with my fingers to make it fit the whole pan.

warm and gooey focaccia bread, right out of the oven. waiting for it to cool slightly was the hardest part..

behold, the duffin

i had heard about the duffin about a year ago. my brother clued me in that a little bake shop, brownie points, existed near his work that made an impeccable duffin. i had never had a duffin before, but as a lover of both donuts and muffins, i was in from the start. my sister-in-law and i took a trip to there, and it is a memory i will never forget. i have been craving them since my voyage last week. my sister-in-law has, in fact, tried to recreate the duffin in her baking adventures, and said she has never been able to. the only thing i can do for now is go back (hopefully sooner rather than later) to brownie points.

the exterior of this magical treat was crispy and crunchy with a thin, sugary layer from top to bottom, which leads me to believe it was momentarily fried. the inside was doughy, moist and had the texture of a fresh baked muffin with the flavor of an old-fashioned donut. any tips on how to recreate this masterpiece?

brownie points bakery: 3 Beechwood Road, Summit, NJ 07901-2528

phone: (908) 464-2253