revelation: at the beer, bourbon, bbq festival

i don’t want imply that it’s taken for granted, but a nose-to-tail, apple-in-mouth roasted pig– lechon– is not uncommon to filipinos.
kid’s first birthday, family reunion, wedding, summer picnic…basically, if you’re celebrating something big, you’re doin it with a pig.

i myself, am not a huge fan. they say the flavor is in fat and the skin–and i don’t like the flavor or texture of either.
i like the white meat, but only with a generous amount of the sauce that traditionally accompanies it, a sauce made of liver and garlic and vinegar. maybe it doesn’t sound tasty--liver-- but that sauce redeems even the most overdone meat. and actually my favorite rendition of lechon is when all the meat and skin and bits that have been hacked apart with a giant, scary cleaver are stewed in that sauce. it’s called paksiw na lechon. served over a bed of white rice–it’s leftovers, but it feels even more indulgent and delicious, in my opinion, than when the pork is freshly served.

so being at the beer bourbon and bbq fest was familiar territory, from a culinary standpoint. but it didn’t mean it wasn’t revelatory.

for example, the term “pulled pork” to me means meat roasted to such a tenderness that it it’s easily pulled apart with your fork.
the gruesome and glorious sight of burly men, heavy duty gloves to their elbows, hunched over and reaching into a glistening, red, split pig and scooping a handful of thready pork onto your plate never struck my imagination.

pulled pork, now i get it.

but what was true for me about the lechon i’ve grown accustomed to, was true for most of the meat i tasted last night– a generous sauce, whether it’s a runny, hot, vinegary variety, or a thicker, sweeter kind, with a strong smoky chipotle note, is compulsory.

there was one very exceptional surprise: hill country bbq. they roast the pork in the pig. i had to think about that for a second. but what a good trick. double the flavor, double the tender fun. we had almost skipped the hill country table, thinking oh, we could get it anytime here in new york, but it was our favorite bbq of the festival.

to think, we almost took that for granted…

***

kristen and a little red pig…

jerk! (from black sauce kitchen)

little red pig bbq

my dinner selection, from little red pig bbq (north carolina pulled pork, brunswick stew, and slaw)

and…

best of the fest: hill country. texas-style bbq via midtown-west nyc…

tickle tickle

pork, chicken and campfire beans with burnt ends

***

kristen, richard, and allison

(thank you for inviting me along…)

“two city girls. lots of food.”

***

photos  © anita aguilar

feel like chicken tonight? (buttermilk baked chicken…)

how many chicken drumsticks can a girl who’s a hair under 5’1″ properly eat in one sitting?

perhaps it’s more a question of “should.”

i could probably eat 5 of these buttermilk baked drumsticks–oh, the crunchy, cheese crust and the tender, clean meat. they strain the willpower.

i wasn’t even planning to post this recipe (note that i didn’t even wipe down the sides of the plate for the photo –that’s bad food styling) but it deserves to be shared.

i don’t have a lot of experience with buttermilk, but i surmised there was a lot of room to play here. i decided to use the specific measurement for the buttermilk, but , inspired by a memory of nigella lawson preparing buttermilk roast chicken, i chose to marinate the chicken in the stuff overnight (ok, a few nights. does that seems risky?).  i used only drumsticks (budget-friendly, a priority for me post-holiday shopping spree) and i pulled off most of the skin (don’t we all resolve to eat healthfully in the new year?).  i swapped out thyme for dried oregano because that’s what was in my cupboard. and instead of buying sliced white bread, i used panko crumbs ( i wasn’t sure how many cups of crumbs would result from 8 slices, but i chose to use a bit more than the amount of parmigiano-reggiano cheese (so, 3/4 cheese; 1 cup of panko crumbs). i mixed the hot sauce into the marinade–it didn’t have much of an effect. it should have been added to the buttermilk marinade from the get-go.  i salted the drumsticks right before i rolled them around in their bed of cheese crumbs (i added the pepper to the crumb-oregano mixture)…

given the substitutions and some imprecise measurements, i was really only concerned that removing the skin would result in drier chicken.

but i baked these for exactly 40 minutes, and they were perfect.

delicious hot.

just as good cold.

i’ve heard even better a day or two after…

try it yourself…

(and: thank you, martha)

Ingredients:

Serves 4.

Vegetable oil, for baking sheet

8 slices white bread

1 cup buttermilk

1 teaspoon hot-pepper sauce

Salt and pepper

3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese (2 1/2 ounces)

1 teaspoon dried thyme

4 pounds chicken parts (preferably legs, thighs, and wings), rinsed and patted dry

Directions:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Generously rub a baking sheet with oil. In a food processor, pulse bread until it turns into coarse crumbs.

In a large bowl, stir together buttermilk, hot-pepper sauce, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. In a separate bowl, mix breadcrumbs, Parmesan, thyme, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper.

Place chicken in the buttermilk mixture, turning to coat evenly. Working with one piece at a time, remove chicken from liquid, letting excess drip back into bowl; dredge in the breadcrumb mixture, turning to coat evenly. Place coated chicken pieces on prepared baking sheet.

Bake until chicken is golden brown, about 35 minutes.

Note: Leave enough space between the chicken pieces so that they crisp evenly all the way around.

photos © anita aguilar

socorrat paella bar

never in my life have i had such delicious paella. i visited socorrat about three years ago, when it opened, and have been judging all other paellas against it since that fateful day. socorrat is named after the crusty layer of flavorful rice that sticks to the bottom of the paella pan, and about midway through the meal, someone at the restaurant comes over with a spatula, and scrapes all of the crusty goodness off of the bottom of the pan so it’s easy to access. no words can describe how delicious this actually is. in an ideal world. i’d be here once a week, feasting on the eight varieties of paella (and other wonderful sounding tapas) they make, but for now, my memories must have to do.

we started off with the flash-fried piquillo peppers ($7), which were pretty mild and really only slightly spicy when i got some of the seeds at the top, which i liked. they were these were perfect starter to a meal known to be filling. these dainty little bites were perfect, topped with salt and a little squeeze of lemon.

for our entrees, a group of four of us split two paellas. after much debate, we decided on the paella valenciana and the arroz negro (black rice). both were absolutely perfect.

the paella valenciana ($23 p/p), filled with chunks of pork rib & rabbit, snails, scallions, sugar snow peas, and asparagus, lived up to its stunning presentation. this was the dish that had been stuck in my memory for the past three years. the rice was just so flavorful and full, and each bite delivered another unique taste that was somehow comforting and new all at the same time.

the arroz negro ($23 p/p) consisted of “black rice” chunks of fish, squid ink, shrimp, squid, scallops and was equally as delicious as the valenciana, but in a completely different way. the juicy, tender, and chewy white grain rice is actually dyed black by the squid ink and is flavored strongly by the lovely medley of fresh fish in the dish. as full as i was, i just kept craving one more spoonful of this amazing paella. i can’t return soon enough!

socorrat paella bar is located at 259 west 19th st., between 7th and 8th avenues. phone:  (212) 462-1000

recipe: grandma’s pot roast

no one ever really talks about (or seems to make) pot roast anymore. when i was a little kid, one of my favorite memories was driving over to my grandma’s house for her classic pot roast and gravy. she hasn’t been able to cook in a couple of years, and when i last visited her, my cousin and i couldn’t stop thinking of our memories surrounding her delicious pot roast dinners. the pot roast was always so incredibly moist and tender, and the gravy was the most flavorful i’ve had in my life. i needed to recreate this meal, pronto. i love this dish served with some buttery mashed potatoes (perfect for soaking up the gravy) and a side salad. this roast came out wonderfully, with the same flavors and juices that i remember, only i don’t know if it could ever be the same as the one i used to eat at her house.

recipe: grandma’s pot roast

ingredients:

- a 2.5-3.5 lb beef roast

- 4 cloves of garlic

- 1 onion, sliced

- 2 tsp. cornstarch

- salt and freshly grated black pepper

directions:

preheat the oven to 425 degrees. place the sliced garlic,  sliced onion, salt and black pepper in the bottom of the pot.  stand the roast in the middle of the pot & rub top with olive oil and pour salt and black pepper all around & on top of the roast.

brown  the meat (this takes about 25 minutes). then pour 1 cup of water, cover and lower the tempetaure at 350 degrees.

mix in ¼ of water and about 2 tsp. of cornstarch (you may need more, but you can add until you reach the thickness you desire).

when the roast is done, take the “drippings” from the roaster and make gravy separately on top of the stove, adding the cornstarch mixture. serve with whatever sides you like (my choice? mashed potatoes that soak up the gravy, and a nice green salad.

recipe: focaccia

for something i love so much, i really don’t make a lot of homemade bread. and by not a lot, i mean i can count the times i’ve made it in my life on one hand.

when we were snowed in this past week, i had a craving for warm, doughy fresh bread, and there was none to be found. but alas, we had a package of yeast in the house, which was the inspiration for this focaccia. i found this easy recipe in the january issue of food & wine, and changed it slightly to accomodate what we had in the house. the bread was best the day it was made, but was also nice when reheated the next day. 

recipe: rosemary, onion, garlic and feta focaccia

makes one 9×13 loaf

ingredients

• 1 cup warm water
• 1 package active dry yeast
• 1/2 teaspoon honey
• 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 large onion, thinly sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary
• 3 tablespoons feta cheese (optional)

directions

1. in a large bowl, combine the water, yeast and honey and let stand for 5 minutes. stir in 1 cup of the flour and 1/4 cup of the oil; let stand for 5 minutes. stir in the remaining flour and the salt and knead until smooth. transfer to an oiled bowl, cover with plastic and let stand for 1 hour.
2. meanwhile, in a skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. add the onion, cover and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. add the garlic and cook for 5 more minutes.
3. preheat the oven to 450°. oil a 9-by-13 inch rimmed baking sheet. transfer the dough to the sheet and press it down to fit. dimple the dough all over with your fingers and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. let the dough rise until puffed, about 20 minutes.
4. Scatter the onions, garlic, rosemary and feta over the dough, topping with a little bit more olive oil. bake for 20 minutes, until golden. transfer to a rack to cool.

kneading the dough is definitely the most tedious part, but if you don’t think about the flour-y mess you’re creating in your kitchen, it’s actually kind of fun!

i had to really push, stretch and spread the dough around with my fingers to make it fit the whole pan.

warm and gooey focaccia bread, right out of the oven. waiting for it to cool slightly was the hardest part..

ippudo

it’s taken me over a year to visit ippudo, because every single time i try to go, the wait is over two hours long! finally, one of my friends (thank you, sami) decided to run in, put our names in, and head next door for a drink while we waited the standard two hours. under most circumstances, i would be so annoyed about the long wait that i wouldn’t even be able to enjoy the food, but when it came to ippudo, i will say….it was worth it.

our hungry selves practically ran to our table in the back of the larger than expected, jam packed, minimally decorated restaurant.  we started with three appetizers: the shishito (deep-fried japanese peppers with yuzu salt), yamitsuki goma kyuri (cucumber mixed with sesame oil dressing) and one of the nightly appetizer specials, pork and mushrooms with lime jelly. all were delicious, but the cucumber and sesame oil dressing was, by far, my favorite. it was so clean and refreshing, and the toasted sesame topping and the dipping sauce that accompanied the dish were both packed with so much flavor and texture. i also must note how absolutely amazing the mushrooms in the pork dish were – they were some of the best, most memorablel mushrooms i’ve tasted.

our entrees: the ramen noodles. they.were.the.best.i’ve.ever.had.

i ordered the miso ramen, which was soy bean paste flavored ramen noodles in tonkotsu soup with pork belly chashu, cabbage, spinach, manma, ginger & scallions. not spicy at all, and a slightly sweet, perfect, delicate broth.

the karaka miso ramen, which was quite spicier than the rest, but not at all overpowering.

and finally, the shoyu ramen, which is soy flavored ramen noodle soup in a chicken and tonkotsu soup with pork loin chashu, menma, spinach, narto, nori & scallions.  the broth was so rich and full, yet the soup did not seem at all greasy or heavy.

ippudo is located at 65 4th ave, between 9th and 10th st.

phone: (212) 388-0088 (totally worth calling before you go. they’ll tell you the wait time.)

a thanksgiving feast

the time between the day before thanksgiving and christmas day is my favorite time of year. i guess it is for a lot of people, but here’s why it is so magical to me.  a) it is a state of pure joy. i love spending time with family and friends, being hectic, listening to music, and feeling cozy. b) i get to obsessively watch home alone two-three times a week without seeming crazy. c) i obsess over recipes. what to make? what to eat? what to bring to people’s apartments, houses, and holiday parties? the food options are endless this time of year! and it kicks off with thanksgiving.

here are a few photos:

the turkey (after years of being a white meat eater, i have started to absolutely crave dark meat)

brussels sprouts with bacon

cranberry sauce with dried cherries (recipe from everyday food)

cauliflower au gratin (recipe from barefoot in paris, by ina garten)

thinly sliced, roasted sweet and white potatoes with butter, salt and pepper

the stuffing! my uncle’s stuffing was excellent, and super flavorful

we took a quick breather before we hit the dessert table…pumpkin pie (without the added toppings, apple pie, chocolate crackle cookies, and almond cake (which i have no other photo of, but i LOVED)

bobby flay’s pumpkin pie with cinnamon crunch (the “crunch” gave some great added texture to the creamy pie)

my aunt and cousin’s traditional apple pie (with picture-perfect crust!)

an always-requested hit, chocolate crackle cookies

abc kitchen

abc kitchen, the newly opened farm-to-table jean-georges vongerichten restaurant in the flatiron/union square area (it’s on the side entrance of abc carpet & home) promises to deliver only the freshest, local and organic fare prepared with the jean-georges touch. and it delivers.

the plates? all handmade by local artisans. the silverware? all vintage silver. the floors? whitewashed wood that created the farmhouse feel that makes the restaurant seems miles away from a bustling city. the staff uniforms? thrift store purchases. the food? excellent.

we started with these two appetizers, the white bean toast and the cauliflower soup. the white bean toast was as decadent enough that it didn’t even feel like a “bean toast.” it was smothered in a creamy puree of white beans, parsley, olive oil and herbs, and laid atop a crisp piece of grilled bread.  the cauliflower soup was also just as creamy, and was topped with delicious garlic croutons and a few splashes of olive oil.

next came the entrees. we had the artic char and the grilled portabello sandwich. the char was not under or overcooked at all, and still soft and moist inside. it was served over carrot puree and roasted root vegetables that melted in our mouths. the portabello sandwich was served on a ciabatta roll with arugula, lemon mayo, parmesan and jalepeno. the sandwich itself was good, but not great; however, the fries that came with it were wonderful (definitely double cooked – so crisp!). 

last stop: the desserts. the salted caramel ice cream sundae was superb (and so beautiful)! two scoops of super creamy, salted caramel gelato topped with caramel popcorn, whipped cream and bathing in a pool of chocolate caramel sauce. heaven! the concord grape tart was slightly less invigorating. the grape flavor was so muted, and the crust lacked that buttery flakiness that i thought was guaranteed with a tart that looked this great. still, the overall meal and dessert experience was excellent, and abc kitchen definitely deserves a trip for dinner.

- abc kitchen: 35 E 18th St (between broadway and park ave), New York NY 10003

- reservations can be made through open table

austin: part 3

el chile:

this meal at el chile cafe was the perfect way to end our trip. we had walked off our breakfast tacos from the late morning, and worked up an appetite for some authentic tex-mex. el chile came highly recommended from my cousins, who we were staying with, and they hadn’t steered us wrong thus far.

we started off with the queso, which was just divine. charred red peppers, roasted red and white onions, and crisply fried chips led the way to this melted, creamy cheese dip.

our entrees were all superb! my personal favorite were the enchiladas con mole rojo (two achiote-roasted pork enchiladas topped with oaxacan red mole and toasted sesame seeds).

next up, was the chile relleno (poblano pepper stuffed with achiote-roasted pork, topped with ranchero sauce, served with rice and refried beans).

this was my first ever puffy taco! (i have had a recent interest in puffy tacos since seeing them on bobby flay’s throwdown. there is a great recipe for one in his latest throwdown cookbook). these crispy, puffed taco shells were filled with chicken and topped with queso fresco, lettuce, tomato, and guacamole and served with rice and refried beans.

lastly, the pescado entortillado (tortilla-crusted tilapia topped with blackened jalapeño aioli and poblano-corn relish). simple, a little lighter and freshened up with the delicious corn salsa.

austin: part 2

day two of austin was filled with just as much food goodness as day one. we went downtown to south congress street where most of the awesome food trucks set up shop. the food trucks are parked in the same location each day, so they’re basically like brick and mortar shops with wheels. later in the day, we stopped for dessert at chez-zee. evidence below..

crepes mille:

from top to bottom: pork floss crepe (pork confit, sweet/spicy sauce), chicken burgundy crepe, pepperoni pizza crepe.

unfortunately, this little breakfast truck, “the local yolk,” was closed when we visited, but look how cute it is!

finally, some desserts from chez zee. each one was excellent, although my personal favorite was the highly recommended lemon rosemary cake (far left). also pictured, the coco leches cake and the double chocolate gooey cake.